22/03/2014

Looking at both sides

After the 2/2 twill adventure, I started to ponder even weaves.

What is an even weave?
To me it means that there are as many warps as there are wefts showing on top - very easy if we are talking straight threadings/treadlings (as in 2/2 twill, for example...) It seems like Emery (The primary structures of fabrics) is of the same opinion.
(Note: I am not thinking of sett/beat here; I'm not after a "balanced" weave, which for me means there are the same number of ends and picks.)

But what happens if we are using other threadings?

A simple point in both directions, can that really be "even"?



Counted over the whole repeat, there are 99 "up" ends and 97 "up" picks. Is that good enough to be called "even"?






Or a slightly fancier point - this one is even, with 56 ups each.






Treadled to a point, 102 ends, 94 picks.






Tromp as writ, we have 99 ends, 97 picks again.





Some fancier threadings:






This one comes out as even, too - again if counted over the whole repeat.





is also even.











So: how much can the ups and downs differ - can the simple diamond above be called "even"?
Or, perhaps: only straight weaves can be called "even"? (After all, many of the individual sheds above are not even)

I can't make up my mind - opinions welcome!

1 comment:

sarah said...

I need to think before I can comment on the question, but I can say with certainty that I really do love the last draft above, where the twill diamonds change from light to dark. What a lovely scarf that would make!

I've just found your blog, and will read through more of it, because as a new weaver, it's inspiring. I'm a spinner too, and I'm looking for a source of strick (line) flax and flax-working tools, such as hackles - you couldn't suggest someone/where, could you?

thank you for taking the time to tell these inspiring stories!